Baku's skyline is a study in contrast. Icherisheher, the walled old city, is a UNESCO listed maze of narrow lanes centered on the twelfth century Maiden Tower and the Shirvanshahs Palace, while just outside its walls the glass Flame Towers curve upward as one of the most recognizable modern symbols of the city, especially when lit up after dark.
A short drive from the old city, the Heydar Aliyev Center is worth visiting for the building alone. Designed by Zaha Hadid, its flowing white form has almost no straight lines or sharp corners, and it hosts rotating exhibitions on Azerbaijani culture and design inside.
About an hour outside Baku, the Gobustan reserve protects thousands of ancient rock carvings depicting hunting scenes, boats and dancing figures, some dating back several thousand years. Nearby, a field of small mud volcanoes bubbles quietly out of the dry landscape, part of one of the highest concentrations of mud volcanoes on the planet and one of several natural phenomena behind Azerbaijan's nickname, the Land of Fire.
For a change of scenery, Gabala in the north sits in a green mountain valley that feels far removed from Baku's coastline, with a cable car climbing nearby Tufandag for wide views over forested slopes. Travelers with extra time often continue to Sheki, home to a former Silk Road caravanserai and the intricately decorated Khan's Palace.
Most first visits center on two or three nights in Baku, with Gobustan easily covered as a half day trip. Adding a couple of nights in Gabala or Sheki turns the trip into a fuller loop that balances the capital's modern energy with Azerbaijan's quieter mountain scenery.